The Emotional Epicurean: An Indian Summer

When you think of South India, what images do you conjure up? White sandy beaches studded with palm trees, catamarans with wiry fishermen bringing in their catch, dense forests with white-tusked elephants, ancient temples with voluptuous figurines and gods, with many a mythological tale of vanquishing evil.

Then there is another India, the one I remember rather vividly. Bursting at the seams with people, whose daily needs are met about as often as rain in a desert. I remember famished children, sandy-haired and potbellied, begging on the streets. Rituals that govern every walk of life – part cherished history and part painful past. Voluptuous women in white sarees parading large bosoms under studio-created rain in Bollywood movies.

Amidst all these memories, the one that stands out is the food. I remember eating idlis - steamed rice cakes which were soft and puffy as silk throw pillows. I can easily taste the thin, crisp and piping hot dosas or pancakes with spicy chili powder swirled with sesame oil. Cumin, Coriander, dhal or grains in various proportions that are ground onto powders, pastes and potions. Coconut, the emperor of the sweet and savory dance of flavors. Pulses, round or flat, large or small, yellow or green, some ground into batters others into flour and some others for cakes. And last but not the least rice, which is eaten in three courses with a spicy stew (kootu or sambar), rasam and yogurt, flanked by an army of vegetables and condiments and pickles, all served on a banana leaf.

Aviyal:

This dish reminds me of life itself. Traditional Indian vegetables, plantain, eggplant, drumstick, winter melon are used along with carrots and string beans. Yogurt mellows the dish. Handful of ground green chilies gives it the anger and passion. Coconut gives the right edge of sweetness. As life when lived simply, makes the journey enjoyable, this is a rather simple dish. Boil the vegetables. Mix the yogurt, grated coconut, ground green chilies, and boil. Add the vegetables. All done!

Green beans:

Simple and rustic. The winning combination of cumin, black gram, mustard, curry leaves, and grated coconut, are sautéed and added to cooked finely chopped green beans. The same is repeated with eggplant. Fresh and light, like the essence of life.

Rasam:

Boil and bubble, toil and trouble. With tangy tamarind essence, hot black peppers, ground cumin, coriander and dhal cooked in a boiling broth. The broth is allowed to bubble until the spices have resolved their differences and become one.

The three courses of rice with spicy broths, vegetables and condiments which are laid out on a banana leaf make the traditional thali. This is the heart and soul of south Indian food. And many a South Indian.